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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.